Kyoto Station's Must-Try Ochazuke from a Century-Old Seafood Shop
If you find yourself at Kyoto Station with a growling stomach, yearning for a restaurant that not only satisfies your hunger but also offers a taste of Japan's unique cuisine, "Kyoto Obuya" is an absolute must-visit. This establishment, run by a fish merchant with over 90 years of experience, came into existence alongside the Kyoto Central Market. It specializes in traditional Kyoto-style ochazuke (tea over rice), with a particular focus on seafood flavors. You'll find it in the "Eat Paradise" food court opposite the JR West Exit ticket gates, on the third floor of the Isetan department store. (Be careful not to miss it—it's the innermost of four restaurants.)
At Kyoto Obuya, every ingredient is carefully chosen, especially the rice. They source their rice from a century-old shop, selecting a domestic variety particularly suited for ochazuke. It's cooked with kombu (kelp) to achieve perfectly separated, non-sticky grains. The seafood, meanwhile, comes fresh from their own fish stall at Kyoto Central Market, which they've operated for over nine decades. This ensures the utmost freshness and exquisite flavor of each dish.
This eatery is a local favorite, with fewer tourists than you might expect. Queues are common during peak hours. During my visit at dinnertime, I even spotted people in line with their suitcases—a true testament to its popularity. Remember to get your number from the ticket machine (on the right side of the seating area) to avoid confusion with the neighboring restaurant. I arrived just after 6 PM and waited about 20 minutes for a seat.
The menu is concise, featuring around eight different seafood ochazuke options. Their signature dishes are sea bream and salmon, each presented with meticulous care. The recommended way to enjoy your ochazuke is to first mix in the green onions, nori (seaweed), sesame seeds, and fresh seafood sashimi with the rice. Then, sprinkle on some katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) before finally pouring over the hot broth. I opted for the salmon, which I'd recommend for first-timers. It's free from any fishy odor, and once lightly cooked by the broth, the salmon develops a subtle sweetness. The seafood's freshness is remarkable, and the aromatic broth truly elevates the entire dish. For an extra flavor dimension, try pairing it with the house-made, rich sesame sauce.
Expect to spend between 1,000 to 2,000 yen per person. You can choose small, medium, or large rice portions—I suggest going for the large, which is just right. Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my experience at Kyoto Obuya and would certainly return on my next visit to Kyoto Station. If you happen to be in the area, it's a convenient and delightful option for a taste of authentic Kyoto cuisine!